Roadtripping through the Catlins

Everyone loves a road trip, but one through the Catlins promises a real adventure and nature experience. Find out some of the highlights and not-to-be-missed attractions down south. 

Lighthouse at Waipapa Point on the Catlins Coast.

The misshapen triangle of beach and forest paradise, known as the Catlins, stretches across 100km of exposed shoreline and 40km inland through remote forests and farmland along the Southern Scenic Route roughly halfway between Dunedin and Invercargill.

A nature-lovers dream destination, the Catlins lies rugged and windswept between Kaka Point and Fortrose, bounded by the Clutha and Mataura river mouths with two sentinel lighthouses at Nugget and Waipapa Points adding to the interesting history and allure of the region.

If you turn off State Highway One and head along the beaten track to the Catlins on a self-drive adventure you're guaranteed to see some breath-taking scenery and almost as likely to see yellow-eyed penguins, Hector’s dolphins, New Zealand fur seals, Hooker’s sea lion, elephant seal and a large variety of sea and forest birds.

Waipapa Point boasts interesting seascapes, an abundance of wildlife, and New Zealand’s oldest wooden lighthouse – built in 1884 after 113 lives were lost a few years earlier when the SS Taraua ran aground off the rugged coast.

Slope Point.

A little further up the coast, Slope Point – South Island’s most southern point – sweeps out to the southwest, like the characteristic windswept macrocarpa trees of the Catlins, and offers views out to the ocean and interesting rock formations.

Wood turned to stone - part of the petrified forest at Curio Bay.

 A drive to Curio Bay takes you to a penguin colony and an ancient Jurassic-era petrified forest, visible a low tide; and nearby Porpoise Bay offers a chance at spotting seals and our small Hector’s dolphins.

A short inland detour up Newcastle Road followed by an easy forest walk (40-minute return trip) takes you to the McLean Falls.

McLean Falls.

Another detour well worth the effort is a visit to the spectacular Cathedral Caves. These sea-level caves are 30 meters high and accessible (at a small fee) for two hours either side of low tide.

Cathedral Caves on the Catlins Coast.

One of the many fascinating attractions at the Lost Gypsy Caravan. For those who are tempted - pushing the button sends a squirt of water in your direction...

 Next up is Papatowai, a small holiday village and popular overnight stop with a shop, petrol station, motels, backpackers and other accommodation options. Apart from beach and forest walks it’s also home to the Lost Gypsy Gallery (closed over winter), which will keep young and old entertained with curious knickknacks and inventions.

An early morning walk from Surat Bay, along the flat sandy beach to Cannibal Bay, will almost guarantee a sighting of sea lions either on the beach or resting up in the grass just off shore. If you do see them, remember to keep a safe distance and not to stand between them and the shore.

Yawning sea lion near Surat Bay.

 The Nugget Point lighthouse is another site not to missed, not only for the lighthouse and the nugget-shaped rocks jutting out from the point, but for the wildlife you’ll see en route. A trip to the penguin hide at Roaring Bay should also be on your bucket list. Visit at dawn or dusk to catch then leaving or retuning to their burrows.

Nugget Point Lighthouse.

 Road tripping through the Catlins, even in the wildest weather, will not disappoint. But, be warned, turning your back on this natural wonder to head home will the greatest hardship on the trip.

Getting there

•    From Dunedin: For a slow meander into the Catlins take the Scenic Southern Route from Dunedin. For a more direct route, follow State Highway One beyond Milton and look for the Scenic Southern Route turn off to Kaka Point just before Balclutha.
•    From Invercargill: Take the Scenic Southern Route from Invercargill, heading towards Fortrose and Waipapa Point. Alternatively head out on State Highway One and turn onto the Scenic Southern Route at Edendale. From here you can drive to Fortrose or, if time is tight, skip a short section of the Catlins and head towards the coast at Curio Bay or along the Chaslands Highway section to Chaslands and Papatowai.

Travel tips

•    Plan your road trip over three to four days if you hope to see most of the worthwhile attractions.
•    Allow about an hour for travel from either Dunedin or Invercargill to reach the respective start of the Catlins region.
•    The Southern Scenic Route through the Catlins is a sealed road, but visits to a number of sites off the route will require travel on gravel roads.
•    It’s a fairly remote area so take adequate food supplies and cash. You will be able to stock up on basics at shops on the way, but the closest town is Owaka and the nearest ATMs are in Balclutha, Gore or Invercargill.

Taking the Kepler Track in your stride

Whether you plan to enjoy the 60km circular Kepler Track, one of New Zealand’s stunning Great Walks, over a leisurely three or four days – or in a body-grinding five-plus-hour mountain run as part of the Kepler Challenge – Fiordland’s Kepler Track should be on your bucket list.

Nestled between Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri in the Fiordland National Park, the circular Kepler Track offers a great tramping experience on well graded and developed tracks, with comfortable huts and spectacular scenery, on a route that passes alongside lake shores, through beech forests, up to exposed alpine tussock land with a climb of 1350m – and back down again.

From the car park, the track crosses the control gate at Lake Te Anau before meandering through the forested track along the lakeshore past the gently curving Dock Bay and on to Brod Bay about 5,6km from the start.

Brod Bay is a great place to camp overnight, or for a cooling dip and lunch break before tackling the climb to overnight at Luxmore Hut, another 8,2km up the track.

Brod Bay.

From Brod Bay it’s a steady climb but the views when you emerge above the treeline make the slog worthwhile! From here it is a kinder gradient and then a contour around to the Luxmore Hut at 1085m.

Luxmore Hut has great views, 54 bunks, and a large communal kitchen. The side trip to Luxmore Cave to explore the stalactites and stalagmites underground is worth it – don’t forget to pack a torch or two!

The 14,6km between Luxmore Hut and Iris Burn Hut is undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. From Luxmore Hut the track climbs around the side of Mt Luxmore. You can drop your packs and detour to the summit at 1472m for 360-degree views, before tramping the knife-edge tracks that follow the mountain ridges to Hanging Valley. You should be rewarded stunning views across the south fiord of Lake Te Anau – and sightings of the clownish Kea.

Kea on the Kepler Track.

From Hanging Valley shelter, the route descends through a leg-torturing series of steps and zigzags into the beautiful forested section of Hanging Valley, with the promise of a welcome rest at the Iris Burn Hut, with 50 bunks. The short trip to the Iris Burn Falls is another worthwhile side trip.

The forested walk between Iris Burn and Moturau Huts is a gentle 16.2km descent from 497m to 60m ending at the shore of Lake Manapouri and a flat beach-like area in front of Moturau Hut (40 bunks). Trampers on the tighter three-day schedule can continue another 6km along forested paths to Rainbow Reach and then over the swing bridge to the car park for a transfer back to Te Anau while hard-core trampers can push on to finish the entire circuit – not recommended for unfit or feint-heated individuals.

If you're doing the full 60km track over four days, it is another 9,5km from Rainbow Reach (don’t cross the swing bridge if you plan to complete the whole route) along forested and river tracks to reach the car park. This section follow the Waiau River to the control gate also offers good trout fishing.

Getting there

•    The Kepler Track starts at the Kepler Track car park, a short distance from Te Anau. It is an easy stroll from town or the Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre (under an hour) and also serviced by shuttle operators over the Great Walks season (late October to late April).
•    For those with less time (or inclination to walk) there is a pick-up or drop-off point at Rainbow Reach, about 12km from Te Anau, as well a boat trip to Brod Bay… and a helicopter landing pad at Luxmore Hut!

Quick facts

•    The Kepler Tack Huts have bunks, mattresses, heating, toilets, basic cooking facilities, solar power lighting and running cold water.
•    Great Walks huts and campsites must be booked in advance during peak season (October to April).
•    The Kepler Challenge is a premier mountain running event held since 1988. The race usually attracts around 450 entries and is held annually near the beginning of December.
•    The fastest time for the Kepler Challenge is just under 4 hours and thirty-eight minutes, set by Phil Costley in 2005.

What to take

Sturdy boots and backpack with wet weather gear and warm clothing. Do pack a sleeping bag, food for entire the trip (plus surplus emergency supplies), plate, mug and utensils for eating, as well as personal toiletries, a towel and clothing, including wet-weather gear and warm clothing.

Kepler Track between Luxmore and Iris Burn huts.

The last climb from Luxmore Hut to the top of Mt Luxmore.

Heading out from Luxmore Hut.

Mt Luxmore Hut.

Beacon at the top of Mr Luxmore - looking over Lake Te Anau.

Iris Burns Falls - well worth the short walk from the hut.

Escape to Erewhon

If a rural high country station with only animals and good ol' Mother Nature for company is your idea of an idyllic holiday then Erewhon could well be your perfect escape. Find out more about this picturesque working farm and Clydesdale horse stud nestled in the Southern Alps.

Erewhon Station gate in winter - welcome to nowhere!

Erewhon Station is literally at the end of the road. The 35,000-acre Clydesdale horse stud and working farm near the headwaters of the Rangitata Gorge is as close to nowhere and off-the-beaten track as it is possible to get.

Even the name Erewhon - that's “nowhere” spelt backwards (with the w and h transposed) - from Samuel Butler’s classic novel, Erewhon, forewarns of its remoteness. But nothing quite prepares you for the magnificence of the glacial-gouged backdrop of rivers and mountains that tease and tantalize you as you drive through the Hakatere Conservation Park en route to Erewhon.

When you reach the end of the road, you continue, driving back in time and into Erewhon - the home of the splendid working horse. There’s one more river to ford before your first sight of curious young foals frolicking in the expanse of lush-green paddocks bordering the graded gravel road.

Then as you meander through the secluded valley, surrounded by high jagged peaks, edging a little closer to the homestead, the majestic workhorses with feathered fetlocks come into view.

Colin Drummond and his partner, Erin Cassie, run Merino sheep, Hereford cattle and a large Clydesdale horse stud on Erewhon. Farming is done the old way. Ploughing and tractor work is the work of a team of strong-flanked Clydesdales, and all stock work is done on foot or horseback. This is partly because horse power is more effective in such rugged terrain, but also in part to maintain traditions and keep their working Clydesdales in training.

Erewhon is ideal for a weekend retreat from civilisation or a longer getaway. Visitors stay in the original homestead, a comfortable four-bedroom house accommodating up to 17 people. It has a cosy lounge – replete with fireplace and DVDs – and a well-equipped kitchen. And as an added bonus, the station has its own hydropower generator, which ensures a warm stay even in the height of a snowbound winter.

There’s plenty to do apart from relaxing in this magnificent high country setting. You can go fishing, swimming, mountain biking, test your 4x4 skills on the station’s four-wheel-drive tracks, turn your hand to photography, or set off on a tramp – ranging from a gentle stroll to scaling the lofty peaks nearby.

The six-horse wagon team goes out in all weather - and the rain gave us a wonderful rainbow.

Wagon trekking through spectacular scenery.

Horse trekking on the friendly horses is one of the highlights.

A hike up Mt Caroline rewards you with a tremendous view of part of the Lord of the Rings country.

There are horse-powered options too, and the large, but gentle and sure-footed, Clydesdales are suited to nervous beginners as well as more experienced riders. You can choose from horse-drawn wagon rides or horse treks ranging from one-hour to longer rides up to an overnight trek (five hours each way) to The Hermitage – a private rustic mountain hut a five-hour ride each way. The perfect back country experience (weather permitting, of course).

It might be an escape to nowhere – but it is also an escape to paradise.

Getting there

The drive to Erewhon takes a little over a two-hours from Christchurch. Turn off State Highway One at Rakaia and make your way along the Thompsons Track towards Mount Somers (the last petrol station and shops en route). Then take the Ashburton Gorge Road towards Clear Water. You’re likely to lose cell reception just outside Mount Somers. The sealed road ends at Hakatere leaving about 35 minutes on gravel roads. Erewhon is roughly 25 minutes beyond Lake Clear Water, at the end of the road after neighbouring Mount Potts Station - the setting Sir Peter Jackson used for mythical Edoras, the capital of Rohan, in the second The Lord of the Rings movie.

Contact Erewhon Station

For bookings call Colin or Erin at Erewhon Station on 03 303 9739, or send an email to erewhonstation@ruralinzone.net. Visit their website for more information.