Roadtripping through the Catlins

Everyone loves a road trip, but one through the Catlins promises a real adventure and nature experience. Find out some of the highlights and not-to-be-missed attractions down south. 

Lighthouse at Waipapa Point on the Catlins Coast.

The misshapen triangle of beach and forest paradise, known as the Catlins, stretches across 100km of exposed shoreline and 40km inland through remote forests and farmland along the Southern Scenic Route roughly halfway between Dunedin and Invercargill.

A nature-lovers dream destination, the Catlins lies rugged and windswept between Kaka Point and Fortrose, bounded by the Clutha and Mataura river mouths with two sentinel lighthouses at Nugget and Waipapa Points adding to the interesting history and allure of the region.

If you turn off State Highway One and head along the beaten track to the Catlins on a self-drive adventure you're guaranteed to see some breath-taking scenery and almost as likely to see yellow-eyed penguins, Hector’s dolphins, New Zealand fur seals, Hooker’s sea lion, elephant seal and a large variety of sea and forest birds.

Waipapa Point boasts interesting seascapes, an abundance of wildlife, and New Zealand’s oldest wooden lighthouse – built in 1884 after 113 lives were lost a few years earlier when the SS Taraua ran aground off the rugged coast.

Slope Point.

A little further up the coast, Slope Point – South Island’s most southern point – sweeps out to the southwest, like the characteristic windswept macrocarpa trees of the Catlins, and offers views out to the ocean and interesting rock formations.

Wood turned to stone - part of the petrified forest at Curio Bay.

 A drive to Curio Bay takes you to a penguin colony and an ancient Jurassic-era petrified forest, visible a low tide; and nearby Porpoise Bay offers a chance at spotting seals and our small Hector’s dolphins.

A short inland detour up Newcastle Road followed by an easy forest walk (40-minute return trip) takes you to the McLean Falls.

McLean Falls.

Another detour well worth the effort is a visit to the spectacular Cathedral Caves. These sea-level caves are 30 meters high and accessible (at a small fee) for two hours either side of low tide.

Cathedral Caves on the Catlins Coast.

One of the many fascinating attractions at the Lost Gypsy Caravan. For those who are tempted - pushing the button sends a squirt of water in your direction...

 Next up is Papatowai, a small holiday village and popular overnight stop with a shop, petrol station, motels, backpackers and other accommodation options. Apart from beach and forest walks it’s also home to the Lost Gypsy Gallery (closed over winter), which will keep young and old entertained with curious knickknacks and inventions.

An early morning walk from Surat Bay, along the flat sandy beach to Cannibal Bay, will almost guarantee a sighting of sea lions either on the beach or resting up in the grass just off shore. If you do see them, remember to keep a safe distance and not to stand between them and the shore.

Yawning sea lion near Surat Bay.

 The Nugget Point lighthouse is another site not to missed, not only for the lighthouse and the nugget-shaped rocks jutting out from the point, but for the wildlife you’ll see en route. A trip to the penguin hide at Roaring Bay should also be on your bucket list. Visit at dawn or dusk to catch then leaving or retuning to their burrows.

Nugget Point Lighthouse.

 Road tripping through the Catlins, even in the wildest weather, will not disappoint. But, be warned, turning your back on this natural wonder to head home will the greatest hardship on the trip.

Getting there

•    From Dunedin: For a slow meander into the Catlins take the Scenic Southern Route from Dunedin. For a more direct route, follow State Highway One beyond Milton and look for the Scenic Southern Route turn off to Kaka Point just before Balclutha.
•    From Invercargill: Take the Scenic Southern Route from Invercargill, heading towards Fortrose and Waipapa Point. Alternatively head out on State Highway One and turn onto the Scenic Southern Route at Edendale. From here you can drive to Fortrose or, if time is tight, skip a short section of the Catlins and head towards the coast at Curio Bay or along the Chaslands Highway section to Chaslands and Papatowai.

Travel tips

•    Plan your road trip over three to four days if you hope to see most of the worthwhile attractions.
•    Allow about an hour for travel from either Dunedin or Invercargill to reach the respective start of the Catlins region.
•    The Southern Scenic Route through the Catlins is a sealed road, but visits to a number of sites off the route will require travel on gravel roads.
•    It’s a fairly remote area so take adequate food supplies and cash. You will be able to stock up on basics at shops on the way, but the closest town is Owaka and the nearest ATMs are in Balclutha, Gore or Invercargill.